WW2 Warlord Games German Heer Section

I recently finished a ten man section of German Heer infantry for Bolt Action suitable for 1939 to 42.

Models are Warlord Games plastic Blitzkrieg Germans, painted with Vallejo Model Colours, and a couple of Games Workshop washes. After assembling the unit I filled in the round bases with milliput so the lip would not show and then glued the figures to them, with the exception of the prone figures so I could paint their chest areas.

Example of bases filled in with milliput.

I based them with sand and some small pieces of grit pushed into the milliput before it dried, and sprayed them with Army Painter Uniform Grey undercoat. I painted the ten miniatures in a batch.

I painted the bases with Flat Earth, then with a large stiff brush drybrushed Beige Brown over them, followed by a drybrush of Stone Grey. I did this first so I wouldn't have to worry about touching the jackboots and needing to repaint them.

The uniform and skin I followed a guide by Moiterei_1984. He uses a triad system; shade, base, and highlight. The shade is a mix of the base and shade colours painted all over the surface, then the base colour is applied leaving the recesses the original shade colour, and lastly the highlight is added. He has other World War Two painting guides on his blog so is worth checking out.

Tunic;

Shade - German Fieldgrey WWII + Black (only a small amount of Black mixed in to darken it).
Base -  German Fieldgrey WWII
Highlight - Green Grey and German Fieldgrey WWII 

Trousers;

Shade - German Grey + French Mirage Blue
Base - French Mirage Blue
Highlight - French Mirage Blue + Pale Grey Blue

Collar and shoulder tabs;

Shade - Luftwaffe Camo Green + German Grey
Base - Luftwaffe Camo Green
Highlight - Gunship Green + Luftwaffe Cam. Green

The Litzen on the collar is Pale Grey Blue.

Helmet;

Shade - German Grey
Base - German Grey + French Mirage Blue
Highlight - German Grey + French Mirage Blue

Skin;

Shade - Red Leather + Beige Red
Base - Beige Red
Highlight - Beige Red + Salmon Rose

I changed the skin highlight from VGC Pale Skin to a mix of Beige Red and Salmon Rose as I wasn't keen on Pale Skin.

For the the equipment I referred to my copy of Paining War German Army by Ruben Torregrosa aka Heresybrush, although I differed on a couple of colours. I use Deck Tan to lighten colours but a word of warning, only use a little as it can overtake the original colour if too much is added.

Rifle and MG34;

The rifle (and MG34) stock I based with Flat Brown, then mixed Flat Brown with Orange Brown to layer it (leaving the Flat Brown base in the recesses), and then mixed a small amount of Deck Tan into the Flat Brown and Orange Brown mix to lighten it for a a light layering across it. The metal parts of the rifle and MG34 were painted Black, then highlighted Black Grey,  with Dark Blue Grey as a final highlight. Rifle slings were painted with German Camo Black Brown, then layered with a mix of German Camo Black Brown and a small amount of Deck Tan.

Combat Equipment;

The Bread Bag was painted with Green Brown, then highlighted with a mix of Green Brown and Iraqui Sand, before a final light highlight of Iraqui Sand.

The Field Flask was painted with German Camo Medium Brown, then layered with a mix of German Camo Medium Brown and Deck Tan, then again with the same mix but with a bit more Deck Tan. The Black parts were painted Black then highlighted with Black Grey. I dabbed the flask top with Gunmetal Grey to represent chipping on it.

The Gas Bag canister I painted with German Camo Beige WWII, then I used Games Workshop Seraphim Sepia to fill in the recesses of it and darken the base colour. I highlighted with Stone Grey. For the canister strap across the figure I painted with it with Khaki, then highlighted with Stone Grey.

The Gas Bag sheet on the front I painted with Refractive Green, then highlighted with a mix of Refractive Green and Deck Tan.

Entrenching tool and bayonet sheath was pained Black, then highlighted with Black Grey and then Dark Blue Grey. The wooden handle of the entrenching tool was painted with Burnt Umber, then highlighted with a mix of Burnt Umber and Red Leather, and then a final highlight of Burnt Umber and Red Leather Mix with a small amount of Deck Tan in it.

The rolled up tent was painted with Khaki, which I layered up with a mix of Khaki and Iraqui Sand, although I wasn't very impressed by my efforts here so I might try Green Brown or English Uniform instead of Khaki. The splinter pattern was Vallejo Panzer Aces Splinter Blotches II and German Camo Dark Green. 

The Cook Tin was painted Military Green then highlighted with Refractive Green. I repeated this for the ammunition box carried by the MG34 loader. The black around the tin was painted Black, then highlighted with Black Grey.

The boots, helmet straps, ammo pouches, belts and belt supports were painted Black then highlighted with Black Grey. The straps around helmets were painted with Flat Brown, the highlighted with a mix of Flat Brown and Deck Tan. On the back of the figure where the two belt supports meet the central belt support the ends are brown so I did these same as the helmet straps. The metal ring holding them together I painted with French Mirage Grey. Any glasses I used the same colour.

Last the MP40 carried by the NCO was painted Dark Blue Grey, then I washed it with Games Workshop Nuln Oil before highlighting it with Dark Blue Grey. His Ammo pouch was painted with German Camo Beige WWII, then I used Games Workshop Seraphim Sepia to fill in the recesses of it and darken the base colour. I highlight with Stone Grey.

I hope this helps anyone looking to paint early war German Heer. I'm working on a command section and a Mortar Team, then more infantry squads, unless I get distracted by another project.

Andrew

Roland, Count of the Breton Marshes - Saga Hero painting

I was listening to a Saga Thorsday episode where the show host Rodge announced a painting competition to paint a Hero/Challenger model, which I decided to enter. I picked Hero and went with Roland, Count of the Breton Marches, a Carolingian special character, model by Gripping Beast.

I bought this figure at a trade show a year or two ago, not for any reason other than I liked it, so this was the perfect excuse to paint him. I based him on the 40mm round base he came with, and used a bit of milliput around the metal tab of the figure so that it wasn't so prominent. I pushed in a few bits of basing grit into the milliput to represent rocks, based with sand, then undercoated with GW Corax with spray. All colours used are Vallejo Model Colours, and I aimed to match the Gripping Beast painted version which can be seen here.

Like most of my figures I started with the skin. For the base I mixed Red Leather with a bit of Beige Red, then layered it again with a mix of the same two colour but in equal parts. Then I layered again with just Beige Red, then mixed a bit of Salmon Rose with Beige Red and lightly layered again. Last using just Salmon Rose I added the final light layer. I made sure not to paint over the eye pupils leaving them white.

I painted the hair and moustache Black, then layered with Back Grey leaving the recesses Black. Last was to lightly layer the strands of hair with Dark Blue Grey. Whilst doing the base I had some Black left over so mixing some medium with it I watered it down and painted the Lamellar armour so that the black wash filled in the recesses between each armour plate.

Having been inked, I painted the plates of the armour German Grey, then highlighted with Dark Blue Grey, with a final highlight of London Grey. I did the same on the metal boss on the shield and the helmet, with the helmet at the front I lightly brushed on the Dark Blue Grey and London Grey leaving the German Grey in the recesses. I used Neutral Grey on the very tip of the helmet and as a final highlight on the shield boss.

The belt buckle I based with Dark Blue Grey, then highlighted with London Grey, then I mixed London Grey with a small amount of Deck Tan (too much and it turns into beige), to make it a light light silver colour for the final highlight. The leather of the belt and bag was based with Flat Brown, then mixed with Orange Brown to layer it. Last I mixed Flat Brown, Orange Brown, and Iraqui Sand together to highlight them.

Next up was the cloak and part of the helmet ribbon which I did in a dark blue. I based with Dark Prussian Blue, I had to paint the cloak a couple of times as the first time I hadn't shaken the paint enough and it was still quite watery and didn't layer very well. The end result was still a bit shiny over the white undercoat, but I persevered. I then layered with Blue, which helped to cover some of the shininess of the base colour, and did a another layer with Royal Blue. I mixed a small amount of Sky Blue with Royal Blue for the final layer, although I think this was a mistake in the end.

For the yellow of the helmet ribbon I based with Deep Yellow, then highlighted with Light Yellow. I mixed a small amount of Ivory with Light Yellow for a final small highlight. I had also painted the sword sheath black.

I moved onto the boots, looking at the red of the trousers had me flummoxed so I was leaving them and the tunic last. The boot was based with German Camo Black Brown which I mixed a small amount of Iraqui Sand with to highlight it. Last I mixed a bit more Iraqui Sand with German Camo Black Brown to do another small highlight. The top of the boot was based with Stone Grey, then this was mixed with Deck Tan to lighten it for the first highlight, then mixed again to lighten it further for a second highlight, before I applied straight Deck Tan for the last highlight. I had some Stone Grey left on my painting tile so I mixed it with a little US Field Drab to paint the base of the horn.

The quartered shield was based with Yellow Ochre and Burnt Red. I mixed Deep Yellow with Yellow Ochre to lightly layer the yellow of the shield, then mixed Light Yellow into the Deep Yellow and Yellow Ochre mix to lighten it for an edge highlight. For the red quarters I used straight Carmine Red to lightly layer it, then straight Vermillion to edge highlight. I tried mixing a small amount of Deck Tan with Carmine Red to lighten it but instead it turned pink! I had some Carmine Red left over so mixed it with a small amount of Black and based the trousers.

I moved onto the trousers which I had a bit of trouble with. I mixed a bit of Black with Carmine Red, but even a it was too much and it turned into a very dark burgundy. It also didn't base very well over the white undercoat. I re-based with Burnt Red, then layered with Flat Red leaving the recesses Burnt Red. I then layered with Vermillion, getting out a new brush as my current one was starting to lose its point.

For the yellow embroidery on the trousers I used Yellow Ochre as a base, then Deep Yellow layered very carefully over it. I used US Oliver Drab for the green, painting it as carefully as I could in a thin line on one side of the yellow lines. I added yellow crosses inside the diamond patterns as carefully as a could but a couple look more like splodges. I had to go over some and start again, so it took a bit of time to finish.

For the tunic I followed a recipe for white by Alberto Mateos in my copy of 'Painting War Dark Ages'. The base was a rough mix of 75% German Camo Beige WWII and 25% Deck Tan, then half and half each mix for the first highlight, followed by 75% Deck Tan and 25% German Camo Beige  WWII mix for the next highlight. The last highlight was straight Deck Tan. The brown strip around the cuff was Beige Brown. I used Stone Grey on the horn painting it on in strips over the US Field Drab base. I used Chocolate Brown for the central ring around it.

I was on the last lap now. I based the metal parts of the horn, sword, and sheath with Old Gold, washed with a small amount of GW Agrax Earthshade and highlighted with Old Gold. For the browning on the horn top I used German Camo Medium Brown painted strip like, then Beige Brown over it again in strips but spaced apart. I used Black on the tip of my brush to paint the pupils of the eyes. This was difficult and the left eye was too big so I had to use White to paint over some of the Black. In the end the result wasn't great but at a distance they look okay.

The base was based with Chocolate Brown, then a heavy drybrush of Flat Brown over it, followed by Beige Brown. The edge was painted with Beige Brown. I used Ivory as a final drybrush, but it was too heavy and it came out a bit uneven, and too prominent in certain areas. I was a bit disappointed having spent a lot of time on the figure only to ruin it with a rubbish base. I should have been a lot lighter (and used a proper drybrush rather than one of my older brushes).

I showed the figure to a few friends mentioning the basing problem, and a couple suggested a wash over it. I tried GW Agrax Earthshade over the worst areas which saved it. I did a very light drybrush of Ivory over those areas and it was a lot more even this time. The large rocks under the shield I based with Dark Blue Grey, then layered with London Grey.

On the horn I added a few strips of Stone Grey going into the brown to better merge the brown into the main colour of the horn. At a friend's suggestion I added another highlight to the armour as he said it was a bit flat looking. I mixed Deck Tan with London Grey to highlight them finishing the model off. I added a few Woodland grass tufts around the base except at the front so as not to block the shield.

This is the finished model, not the best picture I'm afraid as I had to shine my desk lamp through my broken light box to take it. I received some yellow flower tufts just in time to add to the base between the woodland grass tufts to try and make it pop. I think it does. I've entered it into the competition now so hopefully find out next week if he's a winner. 

Andrew

May Hobby Plans, and April update

I haven't posted in a couple of weeks, and I didn't paint everything I listed in my April Hobby Plans post. The later was probably a bit unrealistic due to the number of miniatures I had hoped to paint. What did I achieve though?

Anglo-Dane Levy with Slings for Saga.

I painted these twelve chaps over the long Easter Weekend, all done with Vallejo Model Colours. I was pleased with them in the end although I wavered a bit doing different brown belts and shoes. The tunics for the most part I'm pleased with. The ochre orange one I think stands out a bit too much form the others, but then again I didn't want them all to be wearing brown and beige. At some point I hope to paint a couple of points of Warriors to add to them, at which point I'll try and decide exactly how to base them rather than leaving them as bare earth.

British Infantry in Italy for Bolt Action.

Thirty nine infantry figures almost done. Some need their hair done, the forward observer with radio needs his radio and side bag finishing, a bit more work on the Vickers machine gun (I need to make a hose to fit between the gun and water canteen), and the PIAT and 2 inch mortar need highlighting. I started these proper in March and they have taken a while to do. I tried to paint them all at once, one colour at a time in an effort to speed paint them. However, it became a chore and I think it shows on a few figures as some of the painting is a bit sloppy (I had to repaint one chap's face as it was noticeably bad). Moving forward I'm not going to do this, instead concentrating on one unit at a time.

Lieutenant with pistol, and two assistants with Sten sub-machine guns

Forward Artillery Observer

Two 10 man sections with Sten armed NCO and BREN light machine gun

One 8 man section with Thompson sub-machine gun armed NCO and BREN light machine gun

Vickers (Medium) Machine Gun

Two inch (light) Mortar Team

PIAT Anti-Tank weapon team

Most of an army there, I'll finish these figures off in May as well as sculpt a utility pouch on two infantry figures to make them assistants for the BREN gunner. I'm holding off buying any more as I'm trying to paint what I own at the moment before buying any new figures.

That's it, these took all of April. I started playing Resident Evil 4 again which lost me some time, as well as stripping some Tsuba WWII Romanian figures and forty four Crusader Miniatures WWII German figures (two LMG teams not shown). I also built some Warlord Games Blitzkrieg German infantry, and Artizan Designs Commonwealth Sikh command. The WWII Germans I'll fill in the bases as something to do when I get bit sick of painting.

For May proper though I'll return to my early WWII Germans. Twelve Waffen-SS (that I had filled in the bases for, and painted the skin on most 9due to squeezing out too much paint), and over 60 figures in a box that need finishing. All Warlord Games figures. There are five 10 man sections in there, medium mortar team (that I might strip and start again), two 3 man LMG teams, PAK 38 anti-tank gun, anti-tank rifle team, command, and light artillery piece. I have a PAK 36 in blister I might start as my existing one I'm not happy with.

With these guys I'm going to concentrate on one unit at a time rather than painting as a whole one colour at a time. I started these in August or September last year (2019), and gave up partly out of frustration but also at the time I wasn't pleased with them. I'll see how I go this time.

I hope to paint an individual figure as well just as a side project. The Saga Thorsday video cast has a competition to paint a Saga hero so I might try and enter it, although I'll need to be quick as it closes on May 8th.

Andrew

Bolt Action British Chindits vs. Japanese (23-01-2020)

Continuing my gaming from this year (2020) another game of Bolt Action, but this time a non league game. Normally we play Bolt Action with historical match ups in mind, picking a date and a theatre, in this case Burma 1944. I had finished two sections and two headquarter units for my British Chindits, and the rest was almost finished, so I was keen to put them on the table. The finished army can be seen here.

British Chindits List (800 points)

Second Lieutenant (Veteran) + 2 Veterans - 91

Medic (Regular) - 23

Artillery Forward Observer - Free

Chindit Section + light machine gun & anti-tank grenades – 190

Chindit Section + light machine gun - 170

Regular Infantry Section (Mid/Late War) + 2 submachine guns & light machine gun - 126

Vickers Machine Gun Team (Regular) – 50

PIAT Anti-Tank Team (Regular) - 40

Sniper Team (Regular) - 50

Medium Mortar Team (Regular) + Spotter – 60

Japanese List (795 points)

First Lieutenant + Regular – 85

Second Lieutenant + Regular – 60

IJA Infantry Squad (10) + light machine gun – 120

IJA Infantry Squad (10) + light machine gun – 120

IJA Infantry Squad (10) + light machine gun – 120

IJA Veteran Infantry Squad (10) – 130

Medium Machine Gun Team (Regular) – 50

Sniper Team (Regular) – 50

Medium Mortar Team (Regular) + Spotter – 60

Neither of us had any artillery or vehicles/armour. I took a list with none to reflect the actual Chindit operations, where they did not have any, with only a PIAT and anti-tank grenades on one section for my anti-armour. My opponent decided not to take any believing it somewhat unfair to use armour and artillery against a force without, but also that the Japanese would be primarily infantry based in such an engagement in the Burmese jungle. I'm writing some time after playing the order things happened is not exact I'm afraid.

Overview of the battlefield

We agreed to play Key Positions with four objectives as I had almost finished that number of markers, the wounded Chindit with Medic one needing some dried herbs gluing to it to finish it off. I placed one near my board edge behind a building (to the Japanese) and the other fairly central by the building nearer the Japanese lines. My opponent placed his near his lines, one in the jungle, the other in the bamboo woods.

Except for a clump near the outpost shack, the palm tree layout is to mark the boundary of woods so beyond that it counted as all woods. The Bamboo trees was one big wood, all the bushes were light cover but could be seen through, the fallen trees, stacked logs, and wooden crates were all hard cover, and the buildings hard cover that blocked line of sight, except you could see under them through the stilts. We forward deployed our snipers, mortar spotters, and I my Forward Artillery Observer.

First action of the game was to active the Chindit sniper with a Fire order who took out the Japanese sniper. Good start for the British. After that we started to bring on our units all of whom had elected to come on in the first wave, except my PIAT team that I left in reserve, and one Chindit unit outflanking on my right flank. My Forward Artillery Observer went down to hide until needed. 

My Chindit Section came on left of the road followed by the Regular infantry section, Second Lieutenant, and Medic. The Vickers machine gun team advanced through the jungle on my left flank. The Veteran Japanese section came on in the middle hiding behind the undergrowth. Of the three regular Japanese sections one came on on their right flank claiming the objective, the second to the right of the road taking cover behind the stacked logs, and the third on their left flank near the bamboo wood where another objective lay. That section was accompanied by a Japanese Lieutenant. The Chindit mortar came on right of the road, while the Japanese machine gun team came on on their right flank through the trees, their Mortar team just to left of those trees, and their other Lieutenant in the trees between them.

Turn two and the Chindit section advanced towards the buildings left of the road, with the Regular infantry section, Second Lieutenant and Medic following behind them. The Vickers machine gun team advances again to a firing position at the edge of the trees. The Chindit sniper fires at the Veteran Japanese section putting a pin on it and killing one. The Chindit Mortar fires but misses, needing another turn to range in, the same for the Japanese Mortar. The Veteran Japanese section ran forward down the road, while the Regular Japanese section, and accompanying Lieutenant, near the bamboo woods advanced forward. The rest of the Japanese army held firm, the machine gun team rattling off a few shots but not hitting anything. Last activation was to advance the Chindit Forward Observer to the edge of the jungle so he could see the enemy force next turn. 

Turn three and the Chindit Forward Artillery Observer is activated with a fire order to call down a bombardment. I place the point of impact near the Japanese Mortar, machine gun team, and section near hiding behind the stacked logs. The game was starting to heat up now. The Chindit Section advanced between the buildings within 12 inches of the Veteran Japanese section, shooting at them, and killing only two. However, they then assault the Chindit section and wipe it out, consolidating back to the other side of the road. This put me on the back-foot as I lost a third of my firepower (and the better one as it ignored moving and firing modifier).

Both forces' machine guns shoot at each other now, but with range and cover it's a rather lacklustre affair. The Japanese section behind the stacked logs advances forward behind the building, and the Regular infantry section engages in a fire-fight with them. Range and hard cover though means scores only one or two hits, with only a pin and a kill to show for it. I think the Chindit sniper shoots the Veteran Japanese section and hits, but doesn't kill. Both forces' Mortars continue to miss, or their target moves, forcing them to re-range in. The Japanese section with Lieutenant by the bamboo woods advances into it securing an objective.    

Turn four and the Japanese units closest to the artillery strike point go down, however, it fails to materialise. Afterwards we found out this was a mistake as you can react when it comes down. The outflanking Chindit section advances on shooting at the Japanese section in the bamboo wood scoring a few kills. The Japanese section returns fire and scores a pin and a kill. The Veteran Japanese section advances out towards the Chindit spotter and Sniper team, the later falling back to Chindit board edge. The Chindit PIAT team comes on, but out of range to shoot at the Veteran Japanese section. Out of desperation the Second Lieutenant and his two assistants ran back to target them next turn, as well as secure the objective. The Regular infantry section advances forward and continues to shoot at the Japanese section behind the building who also return fire, but only a pin, and a kill or two, is caused on each side. Both forces' machine guns and mortar teams fire but again nothing of note happens except the Japanese machine gun loses a crewman.

Turn five and the artillery strike comes down this time causing pins on the Lieutenant, Mortar, and Medium Machine Gun teams, and hitting the Japanese section by an objective with a heavy howitzer shell, killing seven and putting a load of pins on it. With the Fanatic rule they don't have to test and the three guys left continue to secure an objective. The Veteran Japanese section assault and kill the Mortar team spotter and consolidate back towards the road. The Chindit sniper falls back again hiding in the jungle to avoid being the target of the next banzai charge. Unfortunately it means that he is out for half of the game now instead of putting pins on the Japanese to try and halt them. 

Two pins were put on the outflanking Chindit section as I had decided to leave them to the end to activate feeling them quite safe. I passed the orders test at least, and advanced them forward but still had a pin so their shooting effectiveness was reduced. I pulled the Regular Infantry section back, towards the road to try and shoot the Veteran Japanese section, killing a couple. I ran the Medic forward to go after the objective. The Vickers machine gun scores another kill against the Japanese machine gun team, the Chindit Mortar team again fails to hit fire. The Japanese units hit by the artillery strike I can't remember if my opponent attempted to rally to lose their pins, or order them to fire, particularly the machine gun and mortar teams.

Turn Six and I got first orders dice, but disaster as my outflanking Chindit sections fail an orders test, due to the pin from last turn. They go down meaning they are unable to move closer to shoot or assault the Lieutenant or Japanese section, and contest the objective. The Japanese Lieutenant by them scores another kill against them. After that the Regular infantry section, now in half range for their rifles, shoot at the Veteran Japanese section killing a couple more. Being only 12 inches away they then assault the Regular Infantry section but are wiped out, not without causing a couple more casualties. 

The Japanese section in the center by the building advances around the building and forward to claim the central objective. It was then I remembered that Medics can't claim or contest objectives, so I go down with him not bothering to run him forward as planned. I had pulled back the PIAT team, and second Lieutenant (one assistant down lost to Japanese rifle fire), into the jungle so they were stuck there now. Both forces' machine gun and Mortar teams do little to nothing this turn. With the Vickers I targeted the heavy howitzer hit Japanese section but only kill one, so the two left continue to secure an objective.

I think it was either late meaning we didn't play a seventh turn, rather than rolling two low to play another. End of the game and the Japanese control three objectives to one by the Chindits, meaning a win for the Japanese. It was a good fun game, but I made a number of mistakes that cost me.

Probably the biggest mistake was putting an objective in the centre instead of by a board edge. There were only four so placing two each it was a safe that there would be two by each board edge when it came to roll for picking sides. With three or five there is risk placing them all by the board edge as one side starts with an immediate advantage of having more on their side. Here that would not have been the case. However, with only one in my side I had to push forward to get the other, and attack one in my opponent's side to try and win the game, whereas he had two secure already and only had to go after one more whilst defending the other two.

The other was that I moved a unit within 12 inches of a decent sized Japanese unit which led them to assault and wipe out a Chindit section. I was immediately two sections to four now which meant I couldn't put weight of fire on the Japanese, nor realistically secure three objectives, especially as I had to attack two of them. Normally my opponent is quite hesitant to assault with his sections if less than ten men but he forwent this attitude during our game and it caught me by surprise. In future I would have to look out for this.

Normally I leave too many units out in the open at the end of the turn, meaning I need my dice pulled first in the next turn which doesn’t always happen. This game I was more careful with my units and this wasn't the case so much. I think I used the artillery strike better than I normally do, using it later in game to pin units down, however, I didn't really follow it up so I need to do so in future.

Lastly I forgot to give my an national characteristic, one of the British Army special rules in the game. I normally use 'Up and at 'em' which allows units to auto pass a orders test to assault, or 'Rapid Fire' giving an extra shot per three rifles in the unit shooting. The later is very helpful against the Japanese as extra shooting gives a greater chance of killing them. With the Fanatic rule you can't try and force morale tests to pop Japanese units, you need to kill them one by one until there are none left. I have a lot to think about for future games with them against the Japanese. The list itself, using Ambush, encirclement, and not letting units get picked off by banzai charges! 

Andrew